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M A I N T E N A N C E

ROSS BAG SYSTEM

• BAG
• HOSES
• CHANTER HOSE
• CANISTER & GRANULES (DESICCANT)
  

CHANTER

DRONES

DRONE JOINTS

CHANTER REED

DRONE REEDS


ROSS BAG SYSTEM

These notes relate to the Ross system only. In no way are these intended to replace the normal Ross bag directions - they simply offer a concise run down of key issues.

BAG

• Regularly check the bag for air tightness, particularly around the stock holders – move them around to be sure. Also check under the blowpipe stock.

• When putting pipes away, always remove the chanter and the blowpipe and leave the zip or back of the bag open. If necessary, obtain another reed protector for the blowpipe tenon. Also avoid undue pressure on the bag when closing the pipe box. These steps will maximize the lifespan of the bag and hoses.

HOSES

• If you use hoses inside the bag, regularly check for splitting along the hoses and in particular the stock cups. Consider replacing these with 19mm elbow joints fitted directly into the bottom of the stocks. This will help to decrease the pressure placed on the hoses.
  

CHANTER HOSE

• To allow more moisture to the chanter reed, it has become common practice to remove the chanter hose completely from bag system. Usually a spit trap or hose will be connected to the blowpipe stock to redirect moist air and saliva away from the chanter reed. From personal experience, I have noticed that pipes without a chanter hose are more sensitive to temperature change, particularly heat. This is due to the fact that the hose acts as an insulator for the air going to the chanter reed, partially protecting it from the sun heating the neck of the bag. I feel that the best results are obtained by leaving the hose attached to the chanter stock and canister and to simply remove all of the chanter granules. A possible problem with this method is that vibration from the bass reed can modulate the air in the chanter hose and cause a sympathetic vibrato on High A – not at all desirable. The granules in the chanter section of the canister act as a buffer to prevent this, but the same effect can be achieved by placing an inch of Dacron wool in the bottom of the same section.
  

CANISTER & GRANULES (DESICCANT)

• The granules only requires maintenance when moisture is collecting on your reeds, although it is best to dry the granules on a regular basis to prevent any chance of this happening at all - once a fortnight should be enough for most. Microwave 3 to 4 minutes on high and then allow to cool (evaporate) before putting them back into the canister.
  

• The most important and yet often neglected step is to blow out the dust from freshly dried granules. Blow through each section of the canister at least 3 times, tapping the canister before each time. Ensure that there are enough granules in the canister to avoid them moving around, but not so many that there is too much pressure when the lid is on – both situations will generate unwanted dust. Failure to do this will result in dust blowing through to the drone reeds and possibly damaging them. When reassembling a bag with a clamp – tighten the thumbscrews as much as you can.
  

• It is advisable to pay particular attention to the chanter section of the canister if you still need to use granules here. Never completely fill the chanter section with granules as chanter reeds do require some moisture to operate correctly. That doesn’t mean not filling the section to the top, but rather positioning the separator so that you have roughly half-and-half wet and dry air going to the reed. The ideal ratio for wet to dry air is of course dependent on how wet a blower you are. In addition, never dry all of the chanter granules at once, as any sudden change in the amount of moisture passing through to the reed could adversely affect it's pitch and tonal quality. It is best to dry only a quarter of the chanter granules at a time and to then mix them with the others. 

• Ensure the 4 way connector is fitted securely. They have a tendency to warp upwards at the edges - this is easily fixed by heating it in boiling water, bending back the other way and then running under cold water. Also clear out crushed granules in the narrow channels of the 4 way connector and the lid.

CHANTER

• Clean the inside bore of the chanter by using a thin bottlebrush. For the throat and inside the holes, use something soft such as a cotton bud.

• Irrespective of whether a chanter is wooden or plastic, never remove a chanter from it’s stock by twisting from the bottom - always grab it at the top.

• It is not advisable to oil a wooden chanter inside or out as it tends to dull the tone.

• Ensure any tape used is in good condition.

DRONES

• After playing in cold weather, check the drone bores for condensation. If moisture is present, dry the bores by using a pull-through.

• Occasionally clean the bores of the drones by using a bottlebrush and or a pull-through.

• Oiling drone bores - be aware that there are conflicting views as to whether to oil drones or not, but the occasional light oil has ever done any harm to the pipes I have worked with. If in doubt, do some research and decide for yourself. Cold-pressed Almond Oil or Sweet Almond Oil are often recommended. The age and condition of the wood will dictate how often they should be oiled. Older wood that feels dry and light could well need to be treated every couple of months until it stops absorbing oil - after this once a year should be enough. Newer pipes should only require oiling once a year.

DRONE JOINTS

• There are a few conflicting opinions on the best type of hemp, or thread, to use on drone joints. I have never had a problem with normal pre-waxed black hemp. The most important elements of a drone joint are the quality of the application and that it is resistant to moisture.

• Irrespective of whether black or yellow hemp is used, wax the first layer with thermowax to prevent the joint slipping. All of the layers should have windings as tight and as close as possible. After each layer has been wound, tie-off the hemp and roll it flat between two pieces of wood. This compresses the hemp before the joint is actually used and will help to prevent further compression in the long-term.

• Never, ever, try to cram a new joint with too much hemp into it's home - many stocks and tuning chambers have been cracked due to this.

• Once the new joint gets to the stage where it is nearly tight but not quite enough, you will probably find that one more complete layer will be too much. At this stage you will have to experiment with a layer of hemp where each winding is spaced by about 2 to 3 millimetres. Doing this will allow you to get the tightness of the joint just right. Remember to roll the joint flat before trying it.
  

• It is imperative not to make a joint too tight, particularly on drones with ivory or imitation ivory ferrules as they have significantly less blackwood than those with metal ferrules.
  

• If a joint needs lubricating, try almond oil or cork wax.

CHANTER REED

These points apply to any reed, old or new.

• Avoid exposing the reed to extreme conditions - too wet, too dry, too hot. 

• Don't lick the reed.

• Take care not to damage the corners of the reed when handling.

• To maximise the life of a reed, I strongly recommend the use of a reed protector. This will enable you to remove the chanter and reed from the bag after playing, which will in turn prevent the reed from absorbing excessive moisture from the bag. If there is moisture surrounding the reed seat after playing, wipe it away and allow the reed to briefly air before putting the protector on. If mould becomes a problem, then you are not drying enough, or you may need to place a small hole (about 1 mm) in the protector to allow some evaporation. This can be covered during hotter months if the reed becomes too dry.

DRONE REEDS

• Ensure that your drone reeds are clean and free of dirt between the tongue and reed bed. Any foreign matter could well contribute to air leakage and instability.
  

• Regularly check that your drones reeds are firmly seated into the drones and that they are straight with no chance of them touching the interior of the stocks.
  

• Occasionally check reeds for airtightness. Excessive leaking may suggest dust between the tongue and body or perhaps damage to one or the other.

• Regularly check that your drone reeds are matched or balanced for stability. Refer to: Balancing Drone Reeds